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Newsletter Febuary 2009

WHAT'S IN THIS MONTH?
Welcome to Febuary's issue of my newsletter. I am sorry that it is a little late this month, but with the clubs show and other things happening, this restricted my time a bit. In this month, I have an article about converting my etched hinges (available under HML Models) to represent the style fitted to the Jaguar Mk2 and other cars with a similar style of hinge. I have also given my run down of ModelKraft in Milton Keynes which took place on Sunday 1st Febuary.

Hinge Assembly On Jaguar Mk2
By Mick Lomax

A step by step guide to fitting HML AE001 hinges to Tamiya's Jaguar Mk2
Click on the images to view a larger version.

This demonstration is not restricted to just Tamiya's Jaguar Mk2, it can also be used as a guide for cars which have simular hinges to the Jaguar.
Minor alterations are needed to be done to the Jaguar model itself, but the setting up and positioning of the hinges have to be done at the beginning of the models construction. The reason for this is to allow access to the underneath of the bonnet whilst in position on the body and chassis in the positioning process of the hinges.
As can be seen in the image of the completed model of my Jaguar Mk2, it is a more realistic look when the bonnet is open. And unlike the plastic hinges supplied with the kit, these etched hinges will stay open without using any supports if assembled correctly.
A warning though, this is a fiddly job and for experienced modellers.

jag mk2

The first step, fitting of the lower bracket mounting plates. We start by using the excisting hinge holes in the bulkhead for positioning. Cut away the top of the plastic loops, leaving the upperand lower braces.Cut a thick piece of plasticard to size, then slid it through the bulkhead between the braces up to the inner wing. Mark on the strip areas for filing to ensure correct fitting the inner wing and when satisfied, glue into position.
Now fill the vertical slot in the bulkhead, with a length plasticard of the correct thickness and glue into position. Repeat this process on the other side of the engine bay and once the glue is dried, trim off any excess plasticard behind the bulkhead.
Another alteration to the model is on the heater unit. If fitted in the standard position, it will obstruct the hinges movement. On the underside of the heater unit, file away the edge on the hinge end to allow the unit to be moved towards the centre a couple of millimetres for clearence. Also, at the back of the heater fan housing close to the bulkhead. A small area need to be filed away to allow the bonnet to open, but do this after the initial set up fitting of the bonnet and hinges.

jag mk2

Now we turn our attention to the bonnet. Draw a short line from each of the plastic hinges towards the front of the bonnet, then remove the plastic hinges. Take a length of 3mm X 1mm plastic strip and score a grove with a file along its length as seen in the image. Glue this along the rear of the bonnet following its shape and leaving enough clearance along the back (see images below for a guide).
In this set up, the hinges have been turned upside down and only using two arms per side, not three as normal. Now using the lines drawn earlier as a guide for the outer edge, file a grove wide enough to take the hinge upper bracket. Take the bracket, bend to shape and with the holes pre-drilled, and glue it in position with the high end to the front of the bonnet. The rear of the bracket should be level with the back of the brace. Add a little extra superglue around the bracket where it meets the brace for strengthening.

jag mk2

When this has been completed on both sides, the bonnet will look like this. The brace across the bonnet is prototypical to the Mk2's bonnet as the hinges are mounted to it. To finish the look, you can finish the rest of the bonnet frame using plasticard strips and sheet. Make sure that if you do this, there is no obstruction with the bonnet in its closed position on the body. You also may need to flatten the rear edge of the bonnet slightly to clear the body when it is being opened.
If using this method for another car instead of the Jaguar Mk2, use photos for research or if you can, look at a 1:1 example of the car that you are modelling. I use the internet to get a lot of my research photographs for my models.

jag mk2

Refer to the hinge set instructions for the basic construction and trimming of the pins. Also remember the hinge brackets are being used the opposite way round.
The setting up of the hinges, is the fiddly bit so do not rush. Drill out the holes on the arms whilst still in the fret, it save you from drilling your fingers instead. Use the curved 3mm long arm on the rear and pin to the upper bracket. Take the lower bracket (but do not bend it) and file the rear length flush with the tab. Now drill out both of the end half etched holes (not shown in image) and pin the rear arm the rear hole in the bracket. Remember to put a small drop of Superglue on the end of the pins to stop them from falling out. Do not use any glue where the arms meet the brackets or they will be glued solid.

jag mk2

Now file the tab on the lower bracket back to the fourth half etched hole from the front. At this point, a slight bend will be need to bring the front end of the bracket inwards to clear the inner wing.
Instead of using two arms on the front of the hinge, this set up uses a single arm which is prototypical the the 1:1 Jaguar. For this car, I have used 5mm straight arm at the front of the hinge. Pin the arm to the upper bracket allowing it to move freely.

jag mk2

Bring the assembly round into the closed position and pin the front arm to the lower bracket via the front end hole (not drilled in this image). Once pinned together, the hinge be positioned simular to the one in this image. When fitted to the model, the bonnet moves forwards slightly away from the bulkhead as it is opened. Repeat this process for the other hinge on the bonnet and when completed, check that they move freely but not loosely.

jag mk2

When fitting the hinges to the car, you need to fit the chassis and body together using masking tape holding them in position. Place the bonnet with the assembled hinges onto the body in the closed position. Make sure that the hinges are in the closed position and check for clearance with the inner wings. Adjust the hinges if they are being obstructed by the inner wings. When you are satisfied with them, put the bonnet onto the body in its closed position. Again, use masking tape to stop the bonnet from moving around and falling off

cont. on next column.

 

From the underneath throught the engine bay, carefully glue the lower brackets in position onto the mounting plates that were made earlier with superglue. The front end of the tabs, should be near the end of the mounting plates close to the inner wings as seen in this image. Once glued into position, add some more superglue around the bracket and leave over night to dry. You can also see in this image the position of the bonnet in the open position

jag mk2

When dry, remove the masking tape and check that the bonnet is sitting correctly. Carefully open the bonnet slowly for the first time checking the rear clearance with the body. If it does catch, mark on the bonnet and body where this happens for sanding later once the hinges have been disassembled.
Continue checking the hinge movement as you open and close the bonnet for snagging on the body or chassis. Once you are satified with the hinges and their movement, you can disassemble them by scraping away the glue from the pins and carefully levering them out. When you refit the bonnet, it will be one of the last bit of construction done to the model. Start with fitting the arms to the bonnet brackets first. Then fit the rear arms to the lower brackets followed by the front arms. Fit the battery and heater unit into the engine bay after the bonnet has been refitted and tested.

jag mk2

Here is the finished model with the hinges fitted and operational. In this image, you can see how more realistic the bonnet open looks compared to using the plastic moulded hinges.
This kit was the Tamiya Jaguar Mk2 Racer which is now discontinued. The model has been brought up to date with a rollcage, bucket seat and full harness seatbelt and etched racing steering wheel. Other extra detail includes a fully wired and plumbed engine with brake and fuel lines, and handbrake cables underneath.

jag mk2

Hinges available from HML Models, website on the links page.

 

ModelKraft 2009 Show Review

modelkraft09

Sunday 1st Febuary
Stantonbury Campus Leasure Centre, Milton Keynes

This was my second year at ModelKraft, even though I happen to be a member of Milton Keynes SMC who put on the show, I will give a quick review based on the feedback from visitors to the show who I spoke with.
Stantonbury Campus is the new venue for the show, with this being its second year there. The general feeling that I have heard from the visitor that I spoke to at the show is that they definately enjoy the venue. There was great compliments on the variaty and quantity of different clubs and SIG's that were at the show with their displays. I cannot remember the final figure, but there was in the region of about fifty clubs and SIG's visiting the show. Many a time there was praise on the how the show catered for all different areas of modelling from armour through automotive to aviation, figures and the more unusual. This was also said about the traders, how you could go to some stands and get your normal modelling requirements. Then take a few steps along the hall and purchase the more specialist modelling supplies and see the items in the flesh. If I had more spare time at the show, I could have spent plenty of money myself and been in trouble with the wife when I got home. Luckily for me, I was busy helping with the show and this saved me from an ear bashing from her.
One of my favourite conversations which I had, the visitor whom I was having it with had only just started modelling again and this is what he told me.
" It has been nearly thirty years when I last build model in my late teens. Back then it was just Airfix, Matchbox and Revell kit that I could buy from my local model shop. But the range of kits, paints and all of the extra bit to add to the model these days has got me stunned. With what I have seen here today, I would like to build mine just as good as whats here today."
We spoke for a good ten minutes, whilst he stood there with five carrier bags full of kits, paints, tools and other various items. We finished with an introduction to a club from near his home.
I was glad to see there was more youngsters with an interest in modelling and producing some very nice models.The junior sections in the competition room showed that there are some good modellers for the older generation to encourage.
At the end of the day, everyone from the organiser, exhibitors and visitors had enjoyed theirselves and properly spent too much money. One gentleman was seen changing the price labels on the stuff he had purchased so his wife would know find out how much he had spend that Sunday. How often do we do that?
For you who did attend the show, on behave of the club, thank you for visiting and we hope to see you again next year or at other shows around the country.

ModelKraft 2009

Milton Keynes SMC Website

Shows for March

Southern Expo 2009
Saturday 14th & Sunday 15th March
Hornchurch Sports Centre, Harrow Lodge Park,
Hornchurch Road, Hornchurch, Essex, RM11 1JU.

Doors Open:
Saturday 10am to 5pm. Sunday 10am to 4pm.
Entry: Adults £3:00 Children £1:00 Senior Citizens £2:00

Billed as "The Friendly Show" of which I found was true after my visit their show last year. There is plenty of club displays and trade stands for the visitor, so take your wallet and cheque book with you. The open competition is held on Sunday only. For their website, please click on the link below.

Southern Expo 2009

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Next Month

Chris Eve's article on another one of his model trucks.

© Copyright Michael Lomax
All images © Copyright H M Lomax
Page last updated 16/02/2009