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Newsletter January 2009

Happy New Year to evervyone and I hope that you all got some new plastic for Christmas?
Welcome to the second issue of my newsletter. In this months issue, we have an article from Chris and his build of a Scania P380 18 ton rigid from a select of donors parts. We also a preview to ModelKraft 09 which takes place in Milton Keynes on Sunday 1st Febuary.
Mick Lomax

Scania P380 18T Rigid
By Chris Eve

chris-p380-1 chris-p380-2
Click on the image to view

This model started life as a Emek Scania P cab tractor unit, which I have upgraded and added parts from other kits including a Italeri Scania R500. The first task was to disassemble the Emek Scania tractor unit. Once the model was stripped to its component parts I chopped the Emek chassis just behind the cab mounts and extended the chassis using square tube of the same thickness as the Emek chassis. The chassis was extended to accept the cab and a 20ft curtainsider body which was to be built too.
Next on the chassis, I built up the Italeri R500 rear axle and suspension unit as per the instructions, then modified the assembly slightly to mount onto the Emek chassis. I also cut off the stub axles and replaced them with a pair of KFS Scania drive hubs. The Italeri R500 front axle and suspension was built and modified for mounting to the Emek chassis, where I marked out the placement of the wheel arches on the chassis to help determine where the axle was to be mounted. Once in position I added a pair of KFS steer axle hubs and test fitted some KFS resin alloy wheels to check the wheels would line up and not foul the cab. The fit was perfect.
The oil sump guard from the Italeri R500 kit was glued to the underside of the Emek cab for detail and the R500 gearbox cut to fit the rear of the Emek cab along with a spare Scania 3-series propshaft which was lengthened with spare sprue to fit between the gearbox and the rear axle diff. And now on to the interior.
First I drew round the Italeri R500 floor pan onto a sheet of evergreen. This template was then cut out and trimmed to fit the Emek cab shell and bunk assembly, which I chose to retain on the completed model. The Italeri seats were mounted to the floor pan, minus their mounts as these were too tall, and inaccurate for the P and R series anyway. A KFS right hand dash was modified slightly to fit the lower floor and a new engine tunnel built from grooved evergreen which was lined with masking tape for strength and a textured effect. A DAF XF gear stick was shortened and fitted to the tunnel, and the Emek steering wheel fitted to the Italeri steering wheel boss and KFS dash. I made a bunk reading light from a thin piece of sprue with an offcut for the lamp and mounting plate. The completed interior was given a couple of coats of grey primer and left in that colour to simulate the original Scania interior colour.
The body is made up from half of an old Italeri frigo trailer. Two side panels, plus one roof and floor panel were modified to fit the front wall and rear doors to make a 20ft body. The body was lined with evergreen strip to hide blemishes and to give a mounting point for the curtains later. The doors were cleaned up as was the front wall, however I left the sides as these were to be covered with Solartex.
I then applied filler to the gaps in the joints and sanded this smooth to finish off the body. A set of under-run bars were made from square rod and strip, and fitted to both sides and the rear. The offside has a piece of KFS 2-bar chequer plate to cover the fuel tank and the rear bars were also fitted with chequer plate for steps into the back of the truck. Rear light brackets were made from more evergreen strip. I used a piece of C-Channel mounted under the chassis to mount an Italeri drawbar tow-hitch and towing pin, as I intend to scratchbuild a drawbar trailer later.
The body underside was sprayed Matt Black and the rest primed and then sprayed with 2 coats of Vauxhall Polar White. Once dry I fitted some KFS solartex blue curtain material using double-sided tape. KFS photoetch buckles were fitted and the straps painted matt black (11 each side) - a laborious and tricky task, but well worth it for the final result. The top and rear side of the curtain was trimmed with evergreen strip painted matt black.
The under-run bars were painted matt blue, and the rear detailed with red reflective self-adhesive vinyl, Letraset signwriting, KFS EC regulation plates and gunmetal hinges and locks. With the body complete, I turned my attention to painting the cab and chassis.
First I primed the chassis and sprayed it with 2 coats of Ford Ink Blue metallic, and then primed and sprayed the cab shell Renault Electric Blue and the lower panels and spoiler Ford Nouveau Red. Once dry I buffed the cab parts with a buffing tool on my mini-drill to bring out a sheen to the paint. At the same time also primed and sprayed a set of KFS resin alloys with Plasti-kote chrome silver, along with the front lower bumper and the front grille.
The interior was detailed next by hand-painting the gear stick, air vents and rear reading lamp Gloss Black, and the addition of newspapers, Scania logos on the seats and a new dash decal made up by scanning the original R500 dash decal from the Italeri kit, before flipping the image and re-printing onto photo-paper. A clipboard made from offcuts of price stickers marked with a pen, and a small piece of chrome foil was stuck to the dash. A set of Italeri R500 door cards were cut to fit the P-cab interior and then primed before being glued to the cab shell with Clearfix. The glazing, being from the Italeri R500 was also attached at this stage with Clearfix. A tax disc and OL disc from the KFS EC regulation plate decal set were added to the windscreen.
I could now slide the interior into the cab shell and put the Emek cab back together before attaching this, the chromed wheels and the completed body to the chassis. I detailed the chassis with a few data and warning plates from the KFS set and attached the rear light lenses, being Italeri R500 parts. These were backed with chrome foil and painted with clear orange and red Tamiya paints. The gearbox and propshaft were then glued into place. The gearbox was made up of the rear end of an Italeri 4-series gearbox and propshaft which was extended by mating part of a 4-series propshaft to a 3-series T-cab propshaft to give the right length to meet the rear axle of the P-cab. These were also previously painted to match the chassis. The sump guard was painted Matt Black.
A set of Italeri Scania 4-series headlight lenses were glued over the Emek lights, which had the main lense part removed. These lenses came from an Italeri Millennium Scania 144. I could now add the signwriting to the cab, which consists of the usual Letraset and Normatype rub-down lettering for the main signwriting, and a 'Truck of the Year' decal from the Italeri R500 kit. A 'Charger' decal from an AMT racing set was also added to the sun-visor, along with a pair of Italeri Scania marker light lenses. A pair of Scania Vabis decals from the KFS custom decal set was added to the cab side, and matches the cab colour nicely.
I cut a set of Italeri Scania wipers and mounted them in right hand format, and added a set of Italeri side mirrors with the overtaking mirror cut off and swapped onto the left hand mirror for right hand drive. These were painted Gloss Black and the mirror heads lined with chrome foil.

cont. on next column.

A pair of Italeri Volvo FH16 rear wings was modified by cutting off the ends of the stays and replacing them with plastic rod. The wings were primed and sprayed with Halfords Bumper Light Grey and the stays hand painted Matt Blue to match the under-run bars before the wings were mounted to the chassis in pre-drilled holes. A set of Fleming Pedersen vinyl Scania mudflaps was added to these and the front wings.
The signwriting on the side curtains is real vinyl lettering produced by Paul at Signature Sign Specialists using photos and Microsoft Word as a guide. Final details consisted of a set of KFS/MAD Modelle side marker lights, complete with clear and red lenses, Italeri spotlights and marker lights, and an aerial made from a piece of plastic rod.

To see more of Chris's work, visit his website here.

CME on the Move

ModelKraft 2009


Sunday 1st Febuary
Stantonbury Campus Leasure Centre, Milton Keynes

ModelKraft is one of the countries top model shows and this will be its second year at the new location at Stantonbury. This venue is easier to find, only 5 minutes from the M1's junction 14 and this year, more park space will be made available for visitors to the show.
This will also be my second year at ModelKraft and this years show looks like another great one. Expect to see an excellent display of models and workmanship from all of the visiting clubs which come to support the show each year. All areas of modelling will be covered, cars, planes, boats, figures, science fiction and various dioramas. For this one day show, there will be about 50 clubs visiting and a large selection of trade stands covering almost all of the modellers needs.
Again, there will be the competition area with 19 different classes covering from aircraft through to vehicles, figures, dioramas,etc. Included in these classes, there is also 2 junior sections in the competition. All details of the classes and the rules, directions etc. can be found on the ModelKraft webpages (links below).
So if you do not have anything planned for this Sunday, why not pop along to Milton Keynes and visit ModelKraft for the day.

ModelKraft 2009

Milton Keynes SMC Website

Hints & Tips!

Yogurt Cartons
How often will you be sitting at your workbench and one of the following things happen.
A: You want to mix some paint for either a new colour or for spraying, but have nothing to mix it in.
B: You are working on a model with several parts which need cleaning up before assembly and you cannot find them after putting them down.
The second one usually gets me cursing when it happens, especially when all of my trays are full. My answer? Yogurt cartons!!
Yes, those plastic containors that we throw away after eating the contents. My favourite ones to use are the "Muller Corners" cartons, because there is two for the price of one as they say. Just wash them once you have enjoyed the contents, then stack them up ready for use. In most cases, the two bowls will seperate just by bending and snapping along the crease. But sometimes, you will need to use a pair of scissors to cut along between the two bowls.
For paint mixing, the smaller of the two bowls is sufficiant and it has the ideal shape for pouring into either an airbrush bowl of a paint storage jar. I have used most types of paint in these cartons without any problems. But do not use cellelose based paints or thinners, these will eat through the plastic use in the cartons. The larger half of the carton can be used for mixing larger quantities of paint, i.e. acryllics for scenery, diorama's or large volume colours.
I also use these cartons for keeping small part of models in whilst working on them, holding water when I am applying small decals to models, speading various scenic scatters on display stands and dioramas. The list of usage is ever growing. Even keep hold of those Coleslaw cartons with the lids on them. They are ideal for storage or putting small items in to dry after painting them.
And once you have finished with the cartons, just throw them into the recycling bin with all of your plastic spues, kit boxes and waste paper tissues.

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