StuG III Title

Model Details

Dragon Stug III Ausf. F, 1/35th scale.

Detailing Items:
StuG & figures "Out Of Box", Mini Art "Russia Street" dio base and various resin clutter.

Mr Hobby, Tamiya and Revell paints.

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StuG III Ausf.F "Reloading In Russia "
This project took a year to complete from start to finish. Originally it was going to be the StuG on a plain base with the crew figures around it, but I decided to purchase on of Mini Arts bases for the model to finish the scene properly. So here is a quick run down of this project.
The StuG III Ausf.F is from the Cyber Hobby range of kit by Dragon, which came with some etched detailing items and Dragon's individual link track system. The tank was built straight out of the box without doing any alterations to the model. The etched parts supplied with the kit were used in place of the corresponding plastic parts. The hull structure was assembled with the suspension and the wheels were also assembled but were not fitted to the suspension to add the painting of the hull. Smaller detail items such as the tools, spare road wheels, the cannon, general detailing parts and any open hatches were also left off at this stage of the build. Once I was happy that the hull and all the other parts were all okay and had been dry fitted, everything received a couple of coats of primer and this also included the hull interior around any open hatches. The entire hull, road wheels, sprockets, loose hatches and cannon all received a coat of Sand Yellow before sticking the hatches and cannon temporary in place to freehand the green camouflage with the airbrush. All of the road wheel tyres were next brush painted with Tyre Black before being glued to the suspension along with the idler sprockets. The drive sprockets were left off at this point until the tracks are ready to go on. I masked around the hatch openings then painted the interior and inside surfaces of the hatches an off white.
I like to paint these track links before assembling them in their lengths. I do this by sticking some double sided tape onto a board then place all of the links on the tape before spraying them a steel or iron colour. Once dry, I then turn them over and give them a spray from the other side to ensure good coverage of the paint. Now I assembly sections of track links a couple of inches long and start with wrapping the first section around the drive sprocket, then join the next section onto this and run it along the road wheels gluing them in place. I continue this process bringing the sections around the idler sprocket then place the final section along the top completing the tracks and any slack.
The few decals for the StuG were added and any final detail painting was done before final assembly was carried out. Weathering was done with a few processes, one was using oil paints for any rust staining then followed a dirt wash using oils again.The tracks next received a track rust wash from AK Interactive range of products followed with a dusting of track rust powders. Some spare tracks were glued together then slung across the front and rear of the hull. The weathering was finished with chunks of mud make from scenic scatter mixed with earth colour paint and place over the wheels, hull and spare track links. A dusting of the same earth colour was blown over the model via my airbrush to complete the model.
The figures were built and painted as to the instructions without any problems. When I first assemble the figure holding the shells, I used a shell to get the arms glued in the correct position. Once everything was painted and I went to glue the shells back in the figures hands, they would not sit in the same position as they were when I assembled the figures. This was a bit annoying! Various resin crates, tarpulins and bags from various manufacturers have been used to finish off the model and scen
Now onto the base. The main structure is vacuum formed which needs trimming, sanding before inserting strips of plasticard to strengthen the joints of the main wall sections. The street base was filled with large pieces of Foamlux board to stop it from sagging and flexing once the building walls and model was on it. The window frames, door fence, gate and street ironwork are all injected plastic. All of the window frames were assembled, with some being open and one upstairs frame damaged from a shell hit on the house. The garden fence and gate were cut to size and glued into their positions between the garden and pavement. There is meant to be the overhead cable catenaries for the trams, but the sprues for these parts were not in the box. So I used one of the streetlamps and altered it to look like a catenary that had been damaged. The other streetlamp was assembled at the lamp then these were both glued onto the pavement. The base then received a coat of grey primer followed by painting and weathering. Scenic scatter and grass tufts was used in the garden next to the house. The last item to do was the glass in the windows. This was done using sheets of clear acetate cut into pane size pieces to fit the windows. Each pane then had cracks scored into the with the back of a scalpel blade before cutting these panes into random broke pieces. The larger bits were glued to the window frames and the smaller pieces were glued onto the ledges, pavement and interior floors below the windows. There was some benches and tables that came with the building, so these were built, painted and then used in front of the house to place some shells and tank clutter on them.